Randy, the big thing to be concerned with with the Swift is not so much the actual neck diameter, but what you need for clearance at the neck/shoulder junction to keep out of trouble as the case flows brass into that area and thickens it up. This is a fact of life with the Swift...not a bad fact, but a fact none the less. I measured the neck thickness of all the Swift cases I have: Winchester .012, Remington .0125 and Norma .013. Loaded rounds are going to run in the .249-.250 area, so a .250 neck would allow you to turn the necks completely for clearance and concentricity. The only thing I would caution against would be runnning too little clearance. I believe that a guy needs around .004-.006 clearance to keep out of trouble at the neck/shoulder area and this may result in necks that are too thin for a standard neck die and/or full length die to size the neck with decent tension after turning. If you're going to go this way, a Wilson neck die (modified to size all the way to the neck/shoulder area) or a Redding bushing neck die would be the way to go.
Historically, when Winchester had all their troubles with the Swift and finally pulled it from production, the chamber neck diameter was .254 if my old notes and history are correct. For years, the Savage 112J's were the only factory chambered Swifts to be had, and their neck diameters were in the .258 area and posed no problems for many years. When the 'new breed' of Swifts started emerging some years ago from Remington, Winchester, and Ruger, neck diameters of .260-.262 were/are common. This guards against the necks being pinched at the shoulder junction...not all handloaders are prepared to keep an eye on this critical area for trouble. The Swift case is one of the very few big .22's that peak accuracy at top velocities, and this is why the brass flow situation gets critical...no reason to own a Swift if you're going to shoot it at 22-250 accuracy and velocity levels, 'ya know?
Randy, do you remember the little 'trick' I used at Mainville to find my case neck problem? I initially started doing this when I was working with my Swift and it has become a habit with me ever since, regardless of the case I work with, 'cuz it's simple and that works well with my Norwegian heritage..small as it may be. 
The best tool a Swift handloader can have is a neck turner set to just touch up the neck/shoulder area and a non-tapered (Redding) neck button to use a 'go-no go' gauge.
I don't have any personal experience with an Improved Swift (ie: 220 Weatherby Rocket), but I found that a 40 gr. BTip at 4300+ worked pretty well for fox and prairie dogs!
A 220 Swift is the 'King'...Stan didn't know this until now, but that's my next project after the 30BR that will be coming his way.
Stan will sure have some ideas on this as well, as he's had more than a few Swifts in and out the door of the WareWolf Den, but this how I would approach one and how I'll do mine. -Al